After leaving my bike in Boris’s garage the night before, I met him at 9:00 to begin my journey to Astana. Before departing, I tested the leg covers for the first time. Boris insisted that I contact him if anything happened along the way and strongly advised me to take the route via Pavlodar instead of continuing toward Petropavl as I had initially planned.

Following his advice, I arrived in Astana around 1:30 p.m., though not without some difficulty. The hotel had an incorrect address declared, which forced me to circle the area multiple times before finally reaching my destination.

Exploring Astana’s futuristic boulevard

After settling in, I searched for interesting places to visit, only to find that most were over four kilometers from my hostel. Wanting to save time, I opted for a taxi to take me to the city’s main attractions. My first stop was a shopping center located at the beginning of a strikingly modern boulevard, a stark contrast to the rest of the cities I had visited in Kazakhstan.

Khan Shatyr Mall, one of Astana’s most iconic buildings, is a massive transparent tent designed by renowned architect Norman Foster. It was so unpretentious that it hardly looked like a shopping center from the outside. Inside, the shopping and entertainment center offers a variety of attractions. One of them is a tropical beach resort I didn’t have time to visit. The top floor also includes a mini amusement park with attractions for both children and adults, featuring a monorail ride looping around the mall’s upper levels.

Apart from the numerous shops, various cafés and restaurants line the area. Before continuing my exploration, I grabbed a quick meal.

Lovers’ Park and amazing architecture

I crossed the avenue through an underground passage and arrived at Lovers’ Park. It was an appropriate visit given that today marked my fourteenth anniversary with Sandra, my girlfriend. The “Baqyt” (Happiness) statue in Lovers’ Park welcomes me. It shows a young couple gazing at each other, symbolizing love and unity. The man wears traditional Kazakh robes, while the woman has a modern dress, reflecting the blend of heritage and contemporary life.

This statue has been a subject of controversy, mainly because of the woman’s outfit. Some conservative voices in the country criticized her short dress, arguing that it was inappropriate for a public monument. However, others defended the artistic choice, saying it represents the evolving nature of Kazakh society, where tradition and modernity coexist.

Other charming details adorned the park, such as benches accompanied by intertwined lampposts, symbolizing love between men and women. To the north, the grand Opera House stood, while to the south, the Nur-Astana Mosque, a stunning place of worship, dominated the skyline. I took a moment to appreciate the mosque’s elegant design before continuing down the boulevard.

Bayterek Tower: The heart of Astana

My next stop was Bayterek Tower, an iconic structure symbolizing the birth of the new capital. The tower’s design is rooted in Kazakh folklore, depicting the mythical Samruk bird laying a golden egg atop the Tree of Life. Standing 97 meters tall, it commemorates the year 1997, when Astana was declared Kazakhstan’s capital.

At the top, a small sculpture invited visitors to place their hands within it and make a wish. Another exhibit honored the first religious leaders’ summit held in 1997. The tower is surrounded by ministries, apartment complexes, and prominent business centers, reinforcing the city’s modern identity.

Government landmarks and spiritual monuments

Continuing my walk, I reached the Presidential Palace, often referred to as ‘The White House.’ Before arriving, I passed two significant government buildings, one of which housed the Parliament. Skirting around the Presidential Palace, I went to the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation, a pyramid-shaped structure primarily used for international conferences and cultural events.

Further east, I arrived at the Kazakh Eli Monument, a towering tribute to Kazakhstan’s history and independence. Nearby stood the Hazrat Sultan Mosque, the largest mosque in Central Asia. Its design carries deep symbolic meaning, such as the forty-meter-high dome, representing the age of the Prophet Muhammad when he received his first revelations, or its four sixty-three-meter-high towering minarets, marking his age at the time of his death. The mosque’s grandeur and serene atmosphere left a lasting impression on me.

An evening in Astana

As nightfall approached, I continued toward the Ishim River. Before crossing, I noticed how city planners had effectively utilized the space beneath the bridges, creating recreational areas for pedestrians and cyclists. I also stumbled upon a small, themed reconstruction inspired by Game of Thrones, a curious addition to the city’s eclectic mix of architecture.

With nightfall setting in, I returned to Bayterek Tower to have a taste of the illuminated cityscape. After walking a total of 13 kilometers throughout the day, I decided to hail a taxi back to my hostel. Ending the day on a familiar note, I had dinner at the Burger King on the corner, an unexpected but comforting reminder of home. Despite being far from Sandra, I still found a way to honor our anniversary traditions.