Today, I walked further south of the city, staying within the central district. I headed toward the central station, Volgograd 1, looking for a bank where I could exchange rubles for euros. Unfortunately, the bank I found was not what I was looking for, so I continued walking.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral was impressive with its golden domes shining against the red brick walls. Inside, it felt quiet and solemn, with candles flickering and the smell of incense. The walls were covered in detailed frescoes and religious icons, creating a peaceful atmosphere. Since photography wasn’t allowed, I just took my time looking around. After some time inside, I walked around the surrounding area before continuing toward the Boulevard of Heroes.

Boulevard of Heroes and the Changing of the Guard

At the Boulevard of Heroes, I encountered another eternal flame, guarded by children. The changing of the guard at the Boulevard of Heroes in Volgograd is a formal ceremony at the eternal flame, honoring the soldiers who died in World War II. What makes it unique is that the guards are often young students, not professional soldiers. I found it surprising at first, but locals explained that it’s a way to teach kids about history and instill a sense of respect for the past. As I stopped to take a photo, I was fortunate enough to witness the changing of the guard.

The ceremony itself is well-organized, with precise marching and coordinated movements. Seeing these young students standing so seriously by the eternal flame made the whole experience even more moving. It shows how much the memory of the Battle of Stalingrad is still a big part of the city’s identity.

Struggles with currency exchange

I continued toward the seafront and walked to the War Museum of the Battle of Stalingrad. Nearby, I found a bank that offered a good exchange rate. However, they refused my banknotes, claiming they were too dirty. Later, Artiëm told me that I was being taken advantage of because I was a foreigner.

Determined, I returned to the apartment to get the banknotes Sandra had given me, which were in better condition. Instead of returning to the same bank, I went directly to Sberbank. This time, I asked for an explanation. They clarified that they could not accept banknotes that were too damaged or dirty due to international sanctions imposed on Russia. This explanation made more sense than a simple rejection.

Since I needed to buy a USB cable and planned to extend my route to see Lun, the ekranoplane stranded near Derbent, I exchanged more money than I initially intended.

A concert invitation

After handling my finances, I had lunch at a nearby canteen before returning to the bike post. Oleg suggested going to the bar again since there would be a concert that night. In the evening, three police officers from the investigative division, Aliona, Elena, and Rajish, arrived at the apartment. They were in Volgograd for a training course. After a few drinks, only Aliona stayed with us. We waited for Maxim to arrive, and the four of us headed to the concert together.

During the evening, Aliona wanted to see photos from my trip, so I showed them to her. She mentioned that she hadn’t explored much of the city and suggested accompanying me on one of my walks. After returning to the apartment, I stayed up chatting with Maxim and Aliona for a while. Oleg went to bed early, so I locked the apartment’s door at around 2:30 AM when they left.

A walk through history and local treats

Vera arrived at the apartment around 10:00 AM. Oleg had left early with his son for Saratov, though I couldn’t remember the exact time. Vera prepared a meal for me before heading out. Before cooking, she invited me to walk with her and her dog.

During our walk, Vera explained that the Tank Towers marked the line that the Nazis had been unable to cross. She took me to a candy store and asked if I had bought chocolates featuring pictures of Volgograd. When I said no, she bought me three boxes. We continued walking to the museum, taking photos with her dog before returning to her apartment for lunch.

A jazz concert and unexpected late-night visitors

During lunch, Vera mentioned a jazz concert at an art gallery close to the bike post. Her friend Irina invited me to join her, so I met at the venue around 6:00 PM. The concert lasted about an hour, and the intimate setting of the gallery made it even more enjoyable. Afterward, we walked along the seafront, which was especially beautiful at night. Quiet, with a soft breeze and the city lights reflecting everywhere. We arrived at a restaurant a few kilometers outside the central district, had dinner at 8:30 PM, and then took the bus back around 10:30 PM.

During dinner, Vera received a message from Oleg saying that two people would arrive at the apartment around midnight. That is the main reason why the evening ended earlier. At 12:30 AM, Nikolai and Elena arrived. Initially, I thought they would be staying, but they were only passing through on their way to Moscow. While discussing my future travel plans, Nikolai gave me the contact information of someone in Derbent who could host me. This could be useful as I prepare for the next leg of my journey.