A Slower Start

I woke up a little later than usual after walking more than 20 km the previous day. Yesterday, I didn’t have time to visit the motorcycle shop, so today I planned to change the brake fluid. I left around 11:00 a.m.

Near the shop, I passed by a small monument to Saint Nino, the woman credited with bringing Christianity to Georgia in the 4th century. She is considered one of the most important figures in Georgian history, and her cross is a national symbol. Nearby was what used to be the Tbilisi Archaeological Museum. This site preserves many of the city’s ancient artifacts and tells the story of Tbilisi’s long history as a crossroads between Europe and Asia.

Monument to the Chronicles of Georgia

I rode to the Monument to the Chronicles of Georgia, located at the foot of the city reservoir. The massive stone sculptures depict scenes from Georgian history, including kings, warriors, and religious figures, blending myth and historical events. The monument was designed by Zurab Tsereteli, one of Georgia’s most famous contemporary sculptors, and is intended to celebrate the nation’s rich past and its resilience through centuries of invasions and conflicts. The wind was strong, and I had to wait a while to fly my drone safely. On my first attempt, it wasn’t stable at all, even below 3 meters of altitude.

During the visit, I met a German family who had spent two weeks in Armenia. They told me they hadn’t felt unsafe despite the region having some conflict zones. On my way out, I also encountered a group of Spanish students on Erasmus from Athens.

Lunch and Motorcycle Maintenance

Before returning to the bike post, I filled the tank and stopped for lunch at a restaurant recommended by Irina. Unfortunately, I had the same frustrating experience I had in Ulaangom — the menu didn’t match the dishes available, and it was difficult to figure out what they actually served.

Back at the bike post, Yura helped me change the brake fluid. Ingeniously, he cut a piece of wood from a ball pump to use as a makeshift hose, allowing the fluid to flow properly.

Night Ride and Turtle Lake

As night fell, I met Valdermont and Alexander, two riders from the group Moto Georgia, for a short nocturnal ride. We headed to Turtle Lake, a small reservoir in the hills north of Tbilisi that is a favorite leisure spot for locals. The area is surrounded by walking trails, small cafés, and playgrounds, making it a popular escape from the city bustle. Riding there required weaving through rush-hour traffic, but the view of the city lights reflecting on the water, combined with the soft sounds of nature, made it feel almost magical.

Turtle Lake has been a recreational site for decades, attracting families, joggers, and artists. Its serene waters and hillside setting offer a contrast to Tbilisi’s urban energy, and the locals treat it as a peaceful retreat, especially in the evening when the lights from the city sparkle across the surface.

Evening in the City Center

Later, we parked our motorcycles at our homes and went to a bar in the city center, where Marina and Anna were waiting for us. Eventually, we moved to a restaurant, staying until 2:30 a.m. I went to bed around 3:00 a.m., already planning the next day’s route. Armenia was on my mind as a potential destination.