Leaving the hotel at around 8:00 in the morning, I ride on a long journey with hopes of arriving at my destination by 14:00, factoring in the time zone change. Along the way, I pass several monuments on the outskirts of the city. Though I don’t stop this time, I plan to visit them on my way back in a few days.

Passing through Shymkent

As I approach Shymkent, a city known for its historical significance, I notice a unique sculpture of a boat perched on a hilltop. The mast is ingeniously crafted from an electric pole, a sight both creative and symbolic of the city’s spirit.

A little further on, I reach the city of Sharapkhana, where I decide to take a short break. The centerpiece of the city is a sprawling park dedicated to Salqam Jangir Khan and Jalangtuš Bahadur. At the park’s entrance stands an imposing double equestrian statue of these historical figures. Within the park, there’s a serene mosque that adds a spiritual dimension to the tranquil surroundings. I take the opportunity to stretch my legs and immerse myself briefly in the historical ambiance before continuing towards the border.

Border crossing becomes a challenge

The border crossing seems dense from the Kazakh side. I reach the barrier pretty quickly, thanks to the motorbike’s advantage of skipping queues. Passport control doesn’t seem to be a problem and I recover my documents quite rapidly. Customs, however, present a different story.

An officer informed me that I could continue until a customs officer brusquely stopped me asking for a temporary import document. I already had my Russian document issued, but it was no good. Despite my attempts to clarify the process, he directed me to the office, where I encountered an unhelpful clerk. After some back-and-forth and additional photocopying of documents, I am eventually told to “go away now” in a dismissive manner. I double-check with another officer before proceeding, ensuring everything is in order.

Some intriguing security measures

Between the two borders, there is a ditch that appears to be used for disinfecting the undercarriage of vehicles, though its exact purpose remains unclear. On the Uzbek side, the process seems equally convoluted. While in between controls, I’m directed to register at a specific window and pay a fee of 400 tengue (€1) for what I believe is a temporary import permit. Meanwhile, I continue to navigate further miscommunication among the agents.

Each step involves opening my luggage for inspection, even a decorative bag attached to the bike’s fork. Staying vigilant, I ensure that nothing goes missing during the rigorous checks. I saw many comments on the internet advising travelers to do so, but I believe this may happen at any border crossing if you meet the wrong agent. After completing the final control, I’m given the go-ahead to continue.

Getting to destination

I arrived in Tashkent at around 2:15 PM. After freshening up quickly at the hotel, I head out to explore the city. My first stop is the Memorial to Victims of Political Repression, a solemn and evocative site dedicated to those who suffered during the political repressions in Uzbekistan’s history. Situated in a serene park setting, the memorial is marked by its dignified architecture and tranquil atmosphere. Pathways and greenery surround the landscaped area, creating a reflective environment for visitors to pay their respects. Although there is a museum nearby, I decided to avoid it to make enough time for the rest of my itinerary.

My next destination is the Tashkent TV Tower, an architectural landmark and one of the most iconic structures in Uzbekistan. Standing 375 meters tall, it is the tallest structure in Central Asia and ranks among the tallest freestanding towers in the world. It has an observation deck, located 100 meters above ground, which you can access after paying a fee of 40,000 som (€3). In addition, visitors can also access a revolving restaurant and enjoy 360-degree views while dining. As I didn’t get a SIM card, I struggled to find the correct path and mistakenly entered a sports club without an exit. Unwillingly, I had to retrace my steps back to the main avenue.

Finding quieter locations

From there, I continued to the Japanese Garden, a peaceful enclave on the other side of a lake. The garden offers a tranquil escape with its carefully designed landscapes, while a small amusement park on the opposite shore adds a lively contrast. You can serenate yourself in this environment for a small fee of 30,000 som (€2,3).

Continuing, I visited the Minor Masjidi, a stunning modern mosque with gleaming white marble and intricate architectural details. Unfortunately, by the time I arrived the call for people to attend the mass had already begun. Instead of traditional bells, they used megaphones mounted on the lamppings lining the surrounding streets. The sound was remarkably loud, resonating through the entire neighborhood and creating a sense of urgency people were responding to. Thinking it might be difficult to access the area during the mass, I decided to move on.

A less traveled path

Just behind the mosque lies a plate I briefly explore before heading back to the bustling main avenue, the Minor Cemetery. Like the previous locations, it is a serene and historically significant site behind the Minor Mosque. Though smaller and less frequented compared to other cemeteries in the city, it holds a quiet atmosphere. The cemetery is home to intricately designed gravestones and mausoleums, reflecting the rich artistic heritage of Uzbekistan and the deep respect for those buried there. Many of them belong to prominent figures, scholars, and community leaders.

As I walk through the city, I come across the Monument of Courage, commemorating the victims of the 1966 earthquake that reshaped Tashkent. The Independence Square follows, being a vast and symbolic space celebrating Uzbekistan’s sovereignty. Nearby, as in most of the Soviet Union’s biggest cities, the Eternal Flame burns in honor of those who gave their lives in war.

Time to rest

The equestrian monument to Amir Temur pays homage to the revered 14th-century conqueror and national hero at a square also named after him. This was as far as I planned to promenade today. After covering 13 kilometers on foot, I took the metro back to the hotel, marveling at its efficiency and affordability. The ride was only 1,500 som (€0,1).

Before retiring for the night, I picked up a simple dinner from a local eatery near the hotel, reflecting on the diverse experiences of the day. Tashkent’s rich history, culture, and modernity leave a strong impression, promising more discoveries in the days to come.