Breakfast is available from 7:00 a.m., so I showered while waiting. It’s buffet style, something I haven’t experienced in a while, probably since Darjan (Mongolia). By 8:00 a.m., I am ready to leave for Samarkand. According to the map, the journey should take over four hours. However, something seems to go wrong with the GPS, leading me to a longer and less favorable route.

The Journey to Samarkand

Although the highest speed limit I saw on traffic signs was 70 km/h, almost nobody seemed to respect it. Driving became increasingly tense as vehicles overtook each other using the right emergency lane or swerved in erratic “S” patterns. The road passed through numerous small villages, dotted with pedestrian crossings. However, these intersections lacked traffic signals or red lights to ensure safety. This led to chaotic scenes of people waiting in long lines or dashing across the road in desperation, with cars rarely stopping to let them pass.

Crossing this unpredictable terrain, I finally saw a large “Samarkand” sign, marking my destination just after crossing the Zeravshan River. The planned four-hour drive finally took a total of six hours. Despite the delay and challenging conditions, I arrived at the hotel in one piece. Just as I did the day before, I quickly showered and headed out to explore.

Exploring Samarkand

After planning my route briefly, I decided to make the Ulugh Beg Observatory my first stop. To get there, I walked about 3 kilometers through a labyrinthine neighborhood where most houses resemble warehouses more than homes. Once I arrived, I paid the 30,000 som entry fee (€2). This simple ticket grants access to both the museum and the impressive three-floor-high sextant, a remarkable piece of scientific history.

The observatory itself is a testament to the astronomical advancements of its time and provides fascinating insights into Ulugh Beg’s contributions to science. From there, I aim to visit Shah-i-Zinda, hoping to pass by the Bukharan Jewish Cemetery.

A solemn cemetery

Compared to the one I visited in Tashkent, this one has mostly simple tombstones instead of large mausoleums. When I reached its south gate, I found it closed. Despite my efforts, it does not connect to the adjacent necropolis, forcing me to retrace my steps and find an alternative entrance. I eventually access the necropolis through its northern gate, which conveniently leads directly to Shah-i-Zinda on the other side.

What began as a planned visit transformed into a hiking adventure, as I wandered through the necropolis, captivated by its intricate architecture and serene atmosphere.

From basic to monumental

The mausoleums of Shah-i-Zinda are the highlight of the day, and the 40,000 som (€3) entry fee feels well worth it. The intricate tilework adorning the mausoleums is breathtaking. Although they seem very similar, these arts go from vibrant blues, greens, and whites forming delicate geometric patterns to intricate floral motifs.

Each structure stands as a testament to the craftsmanship of the Timurid era. Many are dedicated to Timur’s family members, while others are revered figures, adding an air of historical and spiritual significance to the site.

Moving around was quite complicated due to the amount of people visiting it. The first areas are wide open and don’t make you feel the lack of space. However, the paths and mausoleums shrink as you move towards the end, generating an intense bottleneck.

The Magnificence of Bibi-Khanym Mosque

Afterward, I continued to the Bibi-Khanym Mosque, another architectural marvel that costs 30,000 som to enter. On my way there, I took the opportunity to walk through the Siyob Bazaar, which leads to the northern side of the mosque. It’s a bustling market with vendors offering an array of spices, fresh produce, and local delicacies. This happened to be an immersive experience of the vibrant everyday life of Samarkand.

The mosque is a sprawling complex, with a wide-open courtyard at its center surrounded by greenery that softens the grandeur of the architecture. A series of intricate mosaic tiles in shades of turquoise and azure adorn the towering domes and arched facades, reflecting the artistry of the Timurid era. The central prayer hall is a massive structure. The sheer scale of the complex leaves a lasting impression, evoking the historical significance and cultural pride of the region.

An enchanting end

My tour concludes at Registan Square, the heart of Samarkand and an iconic symbol of its greatness. Though I don’t enter the square itself, as it is already 6:00 p.m. and the sun is setting, I walk around it for a while. On the southern side, at the so-called “Registan Square Observatory”, I found a large group of people gathered with expectation.

I stopped next to them and after a few minutes, the lights turned on, transforming the square into a breathtaking spectacle. The illumination highlights the three magnificent madrassahs surrounding the square: the Ulugh Beg Madrassah, with its intricate star-studded mosaic patterns; the Sher-Dor Madrassah, notable for its lion and sun motifs that defy Islamic aniconism; and the Tilya-Kori Madrassah, with its gold-adorned interiors that once served as a mosque. The vibrant play of light accentuates the architectural details, making the scene utterly enchanting.

A serene walk back

I took a straighter road to my hotel, Nodir Samarkand, from Hazrat Khizr Mosque. The route is surprisingly calm, with minimal traffic. Also, the pedestrian area is flanked by lines of trees, creating a peaceful atmosphere.

As I got closer to the hotel, I encountered an unexpected obstacle 300 meters from my destination. The road is closed, and the bridge that once connected the two ends is destroyed. The sun was already gone and there was enough light around to see my feet. With the help of my phone’s lantern, I noticed a small path below where cars were passing and decided to do the same to reach the other side.

Finally, after covering 13 kilometers, I arrived at the hotel. However, my day was not quite over yet. The hotel didn’t serve any food and I had to leave again to find a supermarket or small store. I had to make a two-kilometer round trip to the nearest supermarket before I could truly settle in for the night.